I took the bus up from Dubrovnik – easy ride only cost 110k & takes 4 hours. Travel Tip – you can buy your ticket in advance or at the station for the same price but if you buy online you must print your ticket. If you don’t have a way to do that there is a very convenient tourist agency right near the station that will print if for you – 4k (put on a thumb drive in advance if you can, so much easier). You will also be charged 8k for each bag you need to store in the boot of the bus. Also in front of the Bus Station is a huge grocery store – stock up on water & snacks or a full meal. I bought Prucu, a nice chunk of cheese, fresh bread and water for 48k @$7. The ride is beautiful, follows the coast line. Sit by the window on the driver’s side for the best view. If you take the 12:30, be sure to put on sunscreen. I was told that it is difficult to deal with the border crossing into Bosnia – but really it was nothing. The bus was in line for about 3 minutes, pulled up to the building, all the passengers got off and in queue (just the forty of us), the customs officials checked our passports and gave us a stamp, back on the bus and away we went. Ten minutes later we crossed back into Croatia. This time we had a bit of confusion, the controller came on the bus, collected some but not all the passports and took them off the bus for review and stamp. But he never came back on and the bus took off – umm? Where are the passports? One of the passengers went up front and the driver had them – he passed them out and all was good, whew… Do note there are no bathroom on the bus and only one stop about ½ thru the trip (not the first bus stop but the 2nd). Funny – everyone streamed off the bus to the WC and there is a door with a coin box 3k to go to the restroom – ok, not unheard of, well the first person that ran over put in the 3k and opened up the door – well that was the exterior door to both the men’s and ladies room with their own doors & no other fees so everyone just streamed in. So travel tip – don’t be first, be 3rd. Also note the drinks for a small soda are 50k, which is ridiculous. I paid 10k for a huge gelato yesterday as comparison. But being the only game in town…
I had one of the best Airbnb experiences in Split – defiantly the best pillow and Host Jelene is fascinating. I noticed all the Garlic Braids in the markets and roadside stands. Jelena told me her Grandmother is one of the locals that still do that – so cool.
Customer service in Split is nonexistent. At the bus station the attendants just act annoyed and in restaurants indifferent & again annoyed. But they probably are, annoyed. I would be with all the stupid tourists out there.
The local Bus (11k) is easy to navigate but watch for the individual stations, they don’t always stop if no one called or no one standing. So you could miss your destination.
I enjoyed walking Split’s Old Town, getting lost in the cobblestone streets, finding the fish market, listening to buskers and soaking up the history. You Must go to see the Grgur Ninski statue. He was a medieval Croatian bishop from Nin who stood up against the Pope and spoke Croation during his services and not Latin as required. Rub his toe for good luck. And check out Diocletian’s Palace – well what is left of it. It is truly spectacular especially right on the Harbor.
I visited FroggieLand Split, which was a hoot, 507 stuffed bull frogs in “human” poses in 21 different themed dioramas. The frogs were actually created 100 years ago (between 1910 & 1920) by Hungarian taxidermist Ferenc Mere. Note there were originally over 1000 stuffed frogs, but most were lost to the ravages of time & improper storage.
Also the Mestrovic Museum in Split is very interesting. I remember seeing his work in Chicago along the river and now I got to see and learn more about the artist – fascinating, so worth a visit. Be sure to catch the short film in the garden workshop about his large scale work (like the Indians in Chicago).
When you go to Bačvice Beach you will see groups of people playing a Croatian ball game called “Picigin”. It is basically hand ball in ankle deep water; keep the ball in the air (or like hacky sack). Bocce Ball, Checkers & Cards are being played by the men in the park.
Pipi is a bubbly drink that you can only find everywhere, it’s really popular – it is like a marriage of Fanta and Miranda but original to Split. I like it super cold.
For the Perfect drink location, go to the top of Marjan Hill – I recommend walking up Senjska Street & down the stairs of Boticevo Setaluste – more path/road vs. all steps. At the top you will find Café Bar Vidilica. While the drinks are a little expensive, the view is so worth it. Interesting note – the overlook has a couple of park benches with power hookups to charge your cell phone & free wifi – cool.
I “Finally” had Dalmatian Pasticada or Beef Stew. It is a Traditional Croatia Dish that takes three days, when done correctly, to prepare. Worth searching out and trying – I had it at Konoba Pizza Fortuna (see review) and would highly recommend. Side note – I’ve noticed the Dalmatian Pršut is saltier here than its counterpart Italian Prosciutto. However both are excellent – really really excellent.
Konoba Pizza Fortuna