Memories of Cinque Terre, well to be honest I had never heard of Cinque Terre, but my niece Annie was going to be in Italy for a wedding and part of her journey was in Rome, Cinque Terre & Venice. It just happened to coincide with my travels so and easy flight from Barcelona brought me to Rome where we met up and then headed north. I asked what was so special about Cinque Terre and she said we were going to go for a hike. Now that should have sent up some major red flags. Last time I traveled with Annie was in Korea and the day after I arrived she said we were going to go on a hike. Well she tried to kill me that time & I should have suspected she would try to do it again… Uncle Jeff was way out of shape in Korea when we did the 3,472ft hike to Munjangdae Peak of Songnisan Mountain, but I did it, suffered for the week after but did it. This time I was in MUCH better shape, even though I didn’t prepare for it, I have been walking almost 10 miles a day and have lost weight and just did the Bull Run in Pamplona . And to be honest this one was not as “high” but…
Cinque Terre is actually a series of five villages all along the Italian coast. They are connected by an easy train ride, shuttle, ferry or hiking trail. The Sentiero Azzurro or Azure Trail (along with the amazingly beautiful coastline & villages) is what we have come for. There are two trails – the one that runs along the coast, is mostly paved and mostly flat. And the one that goes straight up and down the mountains, in direct sunlight, with little or no shade and very few switch-backs. Guess which one we did? Well we actually did not have a choice, because back on October 25, 2011 a major mudslide took out a large part of the lower trail and has not been repaired yet.
Starting in Riomaggione we went straight up the hillside and over to the next town. It took us a couple of hours and while it was rough, it was not as bad as I expected. Yet I was concerned about my knee and debated whether to continue for the next leg of the journey, which we were told was longer and harder. Manarola was beautiful and I expected that each town would have its own unique breathtaking moment – and I was correct.
After a rest, something to eat and some debate we decided to continue – up and over again. Yes, it is longer and yes I would say at times more difficult, but I so glad we did it. The views are truly amazing. It is really an incredible area and it just seemed to get better with every turn. Hiking through the olive groves, with the vast sea on one side and the hills on the other, magical.
After exploring Corniglia and another rest period we headed out on leg three, this one was part of the lower trail. However there is a “toll” to walk this part of the trail and we decided that it would be the same price to ride the train and we would have more time in the next towns. It was already getting later in the day and in the end this ended up being excellent decision. And the one I recommend. The train was quick – although hiking down to it from the town was a bit daunting, and we arrived in Vernazza in time to soak up the sea and climb to the tower. We then caught the ferry all the way back to the beginning and where our flat was in Riomaggione. The view from the sea is not to be missed.
So to recap and for my suggestion on how to truly experience Cinque Terre… Start in Riomaggione, get going around 8 or 9 am in the morning & bring lots of water, with proper footwear. Hike up and over the mountain to Manarola, again hike up and over to Corniglia (the views are really really amazing), take the train to Vernazza and on to Monterosso al Mare (which we actually didn’t make it to, but that’s ok). Finally take the ferry back to Riomaggione, truly incredible and something that should be on everyone’s Life List.
While the food was good, there is nothing amazing to write about. I do highly suggest having a drink at a Piè de Mà overlooking the sea – one of the top drink spots on my journey. I also recommend having something at Burgus Bar (Mojito) where you will get some free snacks and friendly service (and a cool music mix). I thoroughly enjoyed the local beer Baracchina Amber…
For the record the train does run the whole distance and there is a shuttle service also. Search out the hidden beach Spiaggia di Vernazza and if you have a swim suit go for a jump in sea by the ferry dock also in Vernazza.
The train was 20min late leaving Riomaggione so our whole schedule collapsed. We missed our next connection by 6 min. So in line at the ticket office & at 11€ refund each put us on a new (3hr arrival later) schedule, heck yea. I bought food for the journey at a market near the train station, including a bottle of Lemoncello.
Not far out of the station we entered the mountain & the train picked up speed. I opened the window & stood with the wind in my face. The darkness was punctuated only by a single light that flashed by every 20 seconds. Then clack of the train, the cool breeze in my face & I was transfixed. About 10 minutes of this & boom we were out – back in the sunlight. A shallow river below a quaint town with a castle & church on the hill, it’s the Italian countryside at its best, so beautiful, maybe another time I will stop for a while. Then on to Parma – then Bologna & final stop Venice. Yes – Parma Ham & Parmigiano-Reggiano Sandwich for lunch & then a Bologna sandwich in Bologna. Regional Red Wine, Lemoncello, Olives, Marinated Sun Dried Roma Tomatoes, balsamic glaze on a fresh baguette – it’s a feast.
Be sure to check out my “Visions of Cinque Terre” photos for more specificity with captions and write ups on all there is to do in Cinque Terre… Plus my TripAdvisor reviews will give detailed insight…
